Fruit Trees

Many gardeners think they can’t grow fruit in the garden, either because they feel they do not have the space or because they fear that the fruit will be damaged by cold weather in spring.

However, it is possible to grow most tree and soft fruit in containers and pots; these will not only take up very little space, but can also be moved under cover in bad weather, if necessary. Container growing also gives all gardeners the opportunity to grow exotic fruit, such as citrus, which cannot be planted out of doors in this country, as well as those like blueberries, which are very fussy about soil. If grown well, container fruits will yield reasonable quantities of fruit but, perhaps as important, they look very handsome on a patio, and can even be used as mini-orchards or moveable components of garden design.

Tree fruits grown specifically for pot use are often grafted on to ‘semi-dwarfing’ rootstocks, although the size of pot and the finite amount of compost in it will restrict root and top growth in any event. Any fruit tree variety grafted onto a dwarfing rootstock needs to be grown in a fertile, well-drained soil, such as John Innes No 3 compost, which contains loam and is suitable for plants growing permanently in pots. Blueberries and cranberries need a very acid soil; these should be planted in a proprietary ‘ericaceous’ compost. Citrus are also best in a dedicated citrus compost.

Plant the tree into a pot which is slightly larger than the one from which it came, if it is containerised, or big enough to comfortably contain the roots, if it is bare-rooted. (Bare-rooted trees are planted in the dormant season, while containerised plants can be planted at any time.) With the latter, make sure that the roots are not ‘pot-bound’. If they are badly girdled, return the tree to the retailer; otherwise, tease them out carefully. Put a few flattish stones over the holes at the bottom, then place the tree in the centre, filling in all round with compost. The tree should be planted at the same depth as it was in the nursery, about 5 cms (2 ins) below the rim of the pot to allow for watering.

Trees on dwarfing rootstocks will need staking since they don’t make extensive root systems. A bamboo cane and small tree ties are often sufficient; check them from time to time to see they are not biting into the bark.

Put the pot onto pot feet or bricks, so that water can drain out freely. Repot every year in autumn, into a slightly larger pot each time, until you have reached about 37.5 cms (15 inches) for gooseberries, say, and 45 cms (18 ins) for apples. Investing in a pot trolley makes sense if you need to move pots under cover in winter.

A watchful watering and feeding regime is essential if the plant is to thrive and produce fruit, which sets and comes to maturity. The main cause of fruit drop is uneven or insufficient watering. Mulch the surface of the compost in spring, and use a high-potash liquid feed frequently once the fruits have formed. Little water is required in winter, because the plants are dormant.

Hardy fruits, such as apples and pears, can remain outside in the winter, but the roots are vulnerable in very cold weather, so the containers should be enclosed in bubble wrap (leaving the top clear for watering), and put in a place sheltered from freezing winds. Conversely, in very hot weather in summer, roots of any plant in a pot can be damaged by heat, so place the containers in the shade during heatwaves.

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